![]() You still need to have power and ground being applied to the gauge or this test will not work. By grounding the sending unit terminal connection on the gauge the needle should swing down to empty or below. The problem may be in the gauge so another test needs to be done. Let's say it's already above full and you can't see it move. Normally if nothing is connected to the sending unit terminal connection and the gauge has power and ground then the needle should swing to full or above. Now all that is left is to see if the gauges needle can be made to move. Now take the test lights other end and touch it to the housing of the fuel gauge and it should light up verifying the gauge is grounded. It can be a battery 12 volts or ignition 12 volts. Take the test light and connect it to a source of power. If it does, then you are getting power to the gauge. By grounding a test light or meter to a metal spot behind the dash, turn the ignition switch to the run position and see if the test light comes on or the meter reads about 12 volts on when the test light or meters other lead touches this spot (spot "A"). Since the fuel gauge and tach are grounded through their mounting bolts and rely on the instrument panel having a ground going to it from behind the dash, this too could be your problem.įor testing you need to know which terminal connection on the fuel gauge should be getting an ignition 12 volts. If things are not all the way wired and the instrument panel is not grounded this too could keep the fuel gauge from working. Since the flexible circuit board becomes more fragile as it ages there may be a hairline crack in it keeping the fuel gauge from getting power. ![]() On vehicles that have a factory indash tach they use the same flexible circuit board but in the wiring harness instead of the sending unit wire from the fuel gauge going to the sender the wiring harness is different and the wire in the harness goes to the negative terminal on the ignition coil. This connection with it branching off would be powered with an ignition powered 12 volts while the other unbranched one would go to the tan wire in the loom which then goes back to the fuel tanks sending unit. The other connection in the flexible circuit board will also go to a different single pin in the instrument panels main harness plug but also will go another direction in the flexible circuit board to power up other things. ![]() One of these connections if you trace it through the flexible circuit board to where the main harness plugs into the instrument panel it will go just to one pin in this plug. I'm thinking these connections are at the 3:00 and 9:00 position. This is off of memory as I cannot get to my gauges but there should be two connections off of the flexible circuit board to the back of the gauge. I'm guessing it is a factory gauge in that you said that accept the circuit board (as in flexible circuit board) ?.
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